CAT INFORMATION CENTER

Info on Stray, Lost and Feral Cats – Overview

Dutchess County, like many areas of the country, is currently experiencing a cat overpopulation crisis.  There are thousands of stray and feral cats that can be found in every community, rural or urban.  Each female can produce up to three litters a year with each litter containing an average of four kittens, resulting in explosive growth of the cat population.     P.A.N.T. is committed to helping to resolve this issue through a program called TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return).      

Feral (unsocialized) cats are offspring of domestic cats and are primarily the result of pet owners abandoning or failing to spay their cats. They are not adoptable because they can rarely be socialized.  They are most content living outside; and if not spayed or neutered, they multiply rapidly.

Stray cats are friendly, socialized cats that have been displaced from their home, either lost or purposely abandoned when their owners move or no longer want them.  It is assumed by some that these cats will return to their natural instincts and survive.   This is most definitely not the case.  These cats are terrified, unable to fend for themselves for any length of time, and suffer considerably.  Their lives are a grim struggle to survive in back alleys or woods on whatever scraps of food they can find.   The vast majority die within a few weeks to a few short months from starvation, abuse, accidents or violently as food for a predator.   Since most are not spayed or neutered, they begin to rapidly start reproducing soon after they have been displaced.

How can you tell the difference between a stray and feral cat? A stray cat may approach you.  He may be quite friendly or may be even skittish and avoid contact.   After several days of feeding, he will generally become more sociable.   He will often eat ravenously, will likely look disheveled and meow in distress. He will rarely turn away from food that is offered to him.   On the other hand, a feral cat will never allow a human to touch him and is often seen hiding under a shed or porch or scooting away when someone approaches him.  He tends to be silent and not seen very often during the day unless extremely hungry.  He may appear well groomed.   He often lives in a “colony” of other feral cats that has taken up residence near a food source. 

TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return): Trap Neuter Return (TNR) is a method already proven effective at controlling the cats’ population in many communities.  TNR involves three steps: (1) trapping cats, (2) veterinary intervention in the form of neutering, ear tipping and rabies vaccination and (3) return of the cats to their home territory where they are then fed, sheltered and monitored on an ongoing basis by a designated caregiver.  Whenever possible, kittens and friendly, adoptable adults are removed from the colony and offered for placement in homes.

Learn more about:

Pet Ownership

Why TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return) is the best solution

Young kittens - How you can help

Friendly Stray Cats – How you can help

Feral Cats:  How you can help

Abandoning Domesticated Cats

Relocating Cats

How to Resolve Nuisance Behavior

Spay/Neuter Options

How to Report Abuse

How to Find your Lost Cat

Pet Ownership

Domesticated cats are not at all well suited for living a life on the streets or on a farm.  Most will live a few weeks to a few months depending upon the food sources and the weather.   They often will die from hunger, predatory animals or exposure.   If they are not sterilized, the females will have kittens and those kittens that survive will be destined to live as feral cats and produce more homeless cats.

What responsible owners should do:

• Spay or Neuter your cat as soon as he or she is four to five months old.  This can be done by your veterinarian.  If cost is an issue, see our spay/neuter option page. 

• Keep your cat indoors permanently or at least as much as possible.  Inside only cats are much safer, live longer and are much less likely to bring parasites into your home.

• Take your cat to your veterinarian for an annual exam.   Annual exams are important to detect illnesses as early as possible when they are the most treatable and least expensive.   If you absolutely cannot afford to take your cat to the vet, use a low cost alternative such as a clinic held at Petco or the Dutchess County SPCA or municipalities.  These clinics do not provide medical exams or treat your cat for illness - they only provide testing, vaccines and sterilization.   

• If you MUST re-home your cat, do so responsibly. Plan ahead.     Shelters are overloaded with cats needing homes.  Many times there are waiting lists that can be up to two or three months.   

• Put a break-away collar with name tag on your cat in case he becomes lost.  Microchipping is also an excellent way to protect your lost cat.   Your veterinarian can give you more information about this option.   See our Lost Cat section if your cat does become lost. 

What responsible pet owners should NEVER do:

• Let your unneutered cat go outdoors

• Abandon your cat – your cat will very likely NOT be able to survive on his or her own and will be frightened and suffer from hunger and exposure to the elements and wild animals.   Cats left at barns/farms run away looking for their home.  They have no food source, no shelter, and the majority of domesticated cats do not have the instincts to hunt and survive for longer than a few weeks. 

• Let your cat roam on to a neighbor’s property

Why TNR Is the Best Solution

TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return)  is growing increasingly popular and is being utilized in more and more communities across the nation.  This program can be attributed to its many proven advantages over other methods of animal control.  These advantages include a permanent reduction of feral and stray cat populations, cost savings to animal control and the elimination of nuisance behaviors like spraying and fighting.  In addition, by returning the spayed/neutered and rabies vaccinated feral cats to their territory, TNR provide the public health benefits of rat abatement and protection against rabies transmission from wildlife species.  The lower feral population also helps to lower any predation on birds and wildlife by the cats.

Efforts to simply remove the cats have historically failed; removing cats creates a vacuum effect, providing space for more reproducing cats to move into the area and start the breeding process and the problem all over again.  TNR is more cost-effective than trapping and killing feral cats.   The average cost of sterilization is approximately one-third the average cost incurred to trap, hold and destroy a feral cat.  Unlike any other method known, TNR holds out the realistic possibility of a permanent, long-term solution to feral and stray cat overpopulation and all its associated problems. 

Groups endorsing TNR include:

• AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association)
• HSUS (Humane Society of the United States)
• AHA (American Humane Association)
• ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals)
• Cat Fancier's Association
• SPAY USA
• Alley Cat Allies

The advantages of TNR

 Population reduction

TNR immediately stabilizes the size of a colony by eliminating new litters and removing adoptable cats.  Over time, a colony population is reduced by attrition and natural causes.  

• Newburyport, Massachusetts: Newbury introduced a TNR program in 1992 to address its severe feral cat problem.  There were 300 feral cats living along the waterfront in 1992.  In the first year, 200 cats were trapped as part of the community-wide TNR program with 100 of those cats being adopted into homes.  By 1998, the program reached a 100% sterilization rate.  In 2007, there were only 6 cats living along the Newburyport waterfront.
• San Francisco, California: The San Francisco SPCA has been working with feral cat caregivers to control the feral cat population since 1993.  The city showed a 71% drop in euthanasia rate for all cats after six years of TNR.

  Reduced nuisance behavior and fewer complaints

Neutering feral and stray cats resolves most quality of life issues.  The noxious odor associated with the spraying of unaltered males is caused by testosterone in the urine.  Once the cat is fixed, this is no longer a problem.   The cessation of reproductive activity also brings an end to mating behavior and the noise associated with it, both the yowling of females in heat and the fighting among male cats.  In addition, neutered feral colonies tend to roam much less and so become much less visible.

  Public health concerns addressed through TNR

Descriptions of feral cats as generally diseased are not founded in fact.  The truth is that feral cats are generally as healthy as domestic cats and present a miniscule health risk to humans. 

Rabies:    Cats pose a very low risk for contracting and spreading rabies as they are not a natural vector for the disease.  Feral cats by nature will avoid human contact.  On balance, the public health benefits of maintaining neutered, rabies-vaccinated feral cats in their environment through TNR far outweigh any possible public health threats.  TNR can remove much of the opportunity for rabies to be transmitted from raccoons to feral cats and then to humans by having the cats vaccinated against the virus at the time of neutering.  Vaccination of a large percentage of the feral cats in a given location may then create a barrier species for transmission of the virus from raccoons to humans:  “By keeping a critical mass (usually 80 percent) of feral cats vaccinated against rabies in managed colonies, a herd immunity effect may be produced, potentially providing a barrier between wildlife and humans and preventing one of the major public health threats caused by feral cats."

Rodent control:   The feral cat population has proven to be useful in helping maintain public health in another way: controlling rat and mice populations.  TNR allows the cats to remain in the environment and provide no-cost rodent control, while at the same time stemming future population growth and curbs nuisance behavior such as noise and odor.

 

Young Kittens - How to Help

In order to be in a position to best help a found kitten, it is helpful to determine the kitten’s age.

•  Birth to 2 weeks:  

Between the ages of one to two weeks, kittens start hearing sounds and are able to orient toward those sounds.  Their eyes are starting to develop and are usually open by two weeks of age.  They are very delicate at this age and should stay with their mother if at all possible.

1 week old kitten

• 3 – 4 weeks

By the time kittens are three weeks old, their sense of smell is almost fully developed and they can see well enough to locate their mother.  At 3-/12 weeks their ears stand up.  By the fourth week, their sense of hearing is fully developed and you will notice some interaction with their littermates.  Their teeth are beginning to erupt and they are learning to walk at 3 weeks and can walk well at 4 weeks.   Kittens born in the outside should not be taken from their mother before they are 4 weeks old.   If taken away from mom at 4 weeks old, they will need bottle-feeding for at least another week.

4 week old kitten

• 5- 7 weeks

Sight is fully developed by 5 weeks.    They are steady on their feet, beginning to play, avoid obstacles, run and pounce on “prey.”  They will begin to groom themselves and each other.  If you see kitten running around the yard they are at least 5-6 week sold.    Five week old kittens can be introduced to canned kitten food.   By six weeks old they can often eat dry cat food mixed with canned food. Five-Six weeks of age is the best age to socialize a homeless kitten.   Seven week old kittens are usually fully weaned and but will occasionally suckle on their mother.  They, too, can be socialized to be good pets but this takes a little extra effort.

6 week old kitten

• 8-12 weeks

These kittens are very well developed they are very active and rarely, if ever, nurse.   They will play with toys, chase their tails and leap and pounce.   Kittens found at the age of 8 – 9 weeks who have had no contact with humans whatsoever can sometimes be socialized to become pets although some may always be shy cats around strangers.     Kittens 10-12 weeks who have had some contact with humans are sometimes able to become pets if proper socialization is given.  These will likely be social toward their owners and shy of others.

8 week old kitten

8 week old kittens

How to care for homeless kittens up to 5 weeks old

Homeless kittens are unable to eat wet or solid food and should remain with their mother if at all possible until they are between the ages of 4-6 weeks old.  If the mother is friendly and you can take the mom, great.  Then let the kittens stay with mom until they are 7-8 weeks old.   If their mother is not available, then please read on:

• Keep kittens up to four weeks old warm (about 90 degrees).  If they have no mom, a heating pad set on low and placed under a heavy towel will do.  Place the kitten on the towel (never directly on the heating pad) and place it in a cat carrier or box.   At approximately 3 weeks they will start to pee and poop on their bedding and this must be kept clean.

• Try finding a foster feline mother; breeders, veterinarians and animal shelters may know of a nursing cat.    You can also try to call cat rescue organizations to see if they are able to help you if you can’t care for them yourself (see PANT network).  If you are taking care of the kitten yourself, place the kitten in a separate room away from your other cats.    Wash your hands after handling the kittens if you have other cats in your household.

• Make sure you stimulate the kitten after each meal.  This is what a mother cat would do to help the kitten go to the bathroom.   Take a cotton ball dipped in warm water and gently rub it on the kittens behind until you see that he has urinated or defecated or both.  Normally this takes less than a minute.   Be careful to rub only enough to get them to expel waste materials.   Keep the area clean and watch for chafing which might indicate that you are rubbing too hard or not cleaning thoroughly enough.  

• A kitten’s instinct is to suckle and sometimes a kitten will suckle on a litter mate’s ear or other body part causing irritations.   Try to satisfy this need to suckle by caressing each kitten’s mouth with your finger or soft cloth or the nipple on a small bottle. 

• Check to see if the kitten is dehydrated.   If, when lifting the skin between the shoulder blades, the skin stands up for a couple of seconds instead of immediately springing back to its normal position the kitten may be dehydrated.   A trip to the veterinarian may be necessary especially if the kitten is quiet and/or not eating.

Instructions for bottle feeding a kitten:

Kittens are unable to eat on their own until at least 4-5 weeks of age.  Purchase kitten infant formula such as Just Born or KMR sold at feeds stores, veterinarian offices and sometimes at Walmart.  If after hours, you can go to a 24-hour grocery store and use goat’s milk as a short-term, emergency substitute.  DO NOT feed the kitten cow’s milk.   Feeding can be done with an eyedropper or a nursing bottle (available at the vet, Petco, PetSmart or other pet or feed stores). If using the eyedropper, be careful not to force feed the kitten. Let the baby suck the fluid at its own pace, otherwise you can fill the baby's lungs with milk and cause pneumonia.    Keep the kitten on his belly when feeding – do not put him on his back like a human baby.

If the baby is old enough to suckle, the bottle method is best. These can be purchased usually whereever milk replacer is sold.   One company even makes a special kitten nurser which is designed to keep air bubbles out of the baby's tummy. The company is Catac ($15 to Kitte Res-Q, Dept. C, P.O. Box 723, Santa Paula, Ca 93061).

All utensils should be sterilized before each feeding.

Formula should be warmed to body temperature and fed to small kittens every 3-4 hours. As they get older every 6-8 hours will be enough. Check the package for recommended feeding amounts and feedings per day.  The chart below can also be used as a guideline.   The kitten's age determines the number of daily feedings it should receive.

To feed your kitten, place it on its stomach down on a towel.   Open its mouth gently with the tip of your finger, then slip the nipple between its jaws. To prevent air from entering the kitten's stomach, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle, keeping a light pull on the bottle to encourage vigorous sucking.    Don’t hold the kitten on its back like a baby.

If a suckling kitten aspirates formula into its lungs (this is rare) immediately hold it upside down until the choking subsides. If the kitten is not strong enough to suckle, seek veterinary assistance ASAP.

When a kitten has had enough formula, bubbles will often form around its mouth, and its tummy will be rounded. After each meal, burp the kitten by holding it upright against you shoulder and patting it lightly on the back.

Do not overfeed kittens, as this can bring on diarrhea as well as other problems.

It is very important that after feeding the kitten that you stimulate him to go to the bathroom.   Take a cotton ball dipped in warm water and rub the rectal area of the kitten going from the base on the tail downward.    At each feeding the kitten should urinate and should defecate at least every 24 hours.   Sometimes, kittens become constipated.   If a kitten has not defecated after 24 hours, slightly water down the formula and give a drop of olive oil in the formula.   You can also seek advise from someone in our network or your vet.    A kitten that has not gone defecated in 36 -40 hours should be taken to the vet. 

Feeding guide:

Age in Weeks	Average Weight	Amount of  Formula per DAY	Number of Hours between Feedings
1	4 oz	32 cc	3 hrs. – 8 feedings per day
2	7 oz	56 cc	4 hrs –  6-7 feedings per day
3	10 oz	80 cc	4 hrs –  6 feedings a day
4	13 oz	104 cc	5 hrs. – 5 feedings a day
5	1 lb.	128 cc	6 hrs. – 4-5 feedings a day

How to care for a kitten 5 – 7 weeks old

Homeless kittens should be taken from their mother between the ages of 4-8 weeks (5-6 weeks is ideal) as this is the time, if they are handling frequently by humans, they will become social enough to become wonderful pets.  Four-week old kittens will still need to be bottle-fed although some may start eating canned kitten food mixed with a little kitten milk replacer (see instructions for bottle feeding) .   Most 5 week-olds can eat canned kitten food and usually they start on dry kitten food at 6 weeks.      

If you are unable to adopt the kitten yourself, check various shelters, veterinarians and the PANT Network to see if someone can take the kitten.  Insist that your kittens be placed on a waiting list and check back frequently.  If rescues are full and you have been placed on a waiting list, take the kitten into your home keeping it separate from your other cats.   While waiting for the shelter to have room for your kittens you should:

• Provide proper nourishment.  Kittens 5 weeks old can be started on wet kitten food – sometimes adding a kitten replacer (available at feed/pet stores and veterinarians offices) to the wet food can help a kitten who is a little undernourished.  Kittens 6 weeks and older can eat wet or dry kitten food.  Kitten formula foods are much more nutritious for your kitten.  

• Handle the kitten often while under your care.  This is CRITICAL.   There is a small window of opportunity to make your kitten a social, wonderful pet.  Pick the kitten up several times a day, play with him/her, and hand feed the kitten often.  Spend as much time with the kitten as you possibly can.   

• Provide the kitten with a litter box.   At the age of 4-6 weeks he should be using a litter box.

• Bring a fecal sample to your vet and get worming medicines if needed.

• Check for fleas.  Be careful about what you use as some flea treatments are toxic to young kittens.  Use a flea comb.  Or you can put your kitten over a sheet of white paper and comb the kitten.  If you see little black specks with a red tinge, your kitten probably has fleas.   Your veterinarian can prescribe (usually without requiring a visit) a safe flea treatment for your kitten.

• At 8 weeks, if the kitten is still on a waiting list at a shelter or waiting for a home and you have other cats in your household, you may want to have the kitten tested for Feline Leukemia and AIDS and parasites.  This is best done at your veterinarian’s or it can also be done at Petco.   Assuming the kitten is negative, you can mix the kitten with your household cats, if necessary.

How to help kittens who are 9 weeks and older:

If the kitten is 9 or 10 weeks old and has not been in contact with humans it is sometimes possible to socialize the kitten to become a good pet.   This takes a lot more handling and time and the kitten may or may not always be a little shy toward members outside the family.   (see the 5-7 week old section for help)

Kittens who are over 10 weeks old and never been socialized with humans can be worked with but with no guarantee that they will ever be cuddly, affectionate pets.  If the kittens are to remain outdoors, they should be treated as feral cats (see our feral cat section).  Kittens over the age of 10 weeks can be safely spayed or neutered and rabies vaccinated.   Make sure the kitten has his left ear tipped.  This is a small notch in the left ear and is used as a universal identification mark indicating that a feral cat has been spayed or neutered.   If at all possible, when spaying and neutering ask for a distemper vaccine and worming medication since their immune system is weak at this young age and they are more susceptible to getting distemper and suffering the effects of parasites. 

Friendly stray cats - how to help

Stray cats will usually try to make contact with you, even if they are a bit fearful at first. If you find a stray cat, please take the following actions:

• Check with your neighbors to see if their cat is missing.
• Go to http://lostfoundpets.com, a local lost and found pet service.  Post the cat there and look to see if anyone has reported their lost cat that meets the description of the one you have found. 
• Bring the cat to a shelter or veterinary clinic to be scanned for a microchip.  The Dutchess County SPCA maintains a lost and found service so report the situation to them.
• Notify all local veterinary hospital and shelters. You may find out that there are long wait lists.   If at all possible, keep the cat safe in your home until something else comes along. 
• Check classifieds for lost pets.
• Run a “found pet” ad of your own sometimes at no cost.   (i.e. the Poughkeepsie Journal will run a free ad).    Make sure your description is brief so that callers need to truly identify the cat.   (Unfortunately, there are unscrupulous people who look for free or found cats to be used as pit bull bait or laboratory research labs). 
• Make a very large “found” poster, again with no picture and limited description and put it up in several locations with a 3-4 block area.   
• If at all possible, foster the cat until a home can be found.  If you take the cat into your house and you have other cats, keep him or her separated or go to your veterinarian or Petco to have the cat tested for parasites and Feline Leukemia and AIDS before letting the cat interact with your resident cats.    Feline Leukemia and AIDS is relatively rare, but it is best to test before allowing your cat to intermingle with any new cat. 
• Find a home for the cat if you can’t locate its owner. NEVER give a pet away for free (there are unscrupulous people who are very convincing that are looking for free or very low cost pets to use as pit bull bait or to sell to research labs).  This site gives some good advice on re-homing a cat.    http://www.petrescue.com/petlibrary/pet-rescue/how-to-place-pets/
• If you absolutely can’t take the cat into your home until a new home is found, please get the cat spayed or neutered so that no kittens are born.  Also, try to provide the cat shelter (see our shelter section).  Also see our list of low-cost spay/neuter options.

Feral cats – how to help

Almost everyone wants to see fewer cats roaming our neighborhoods.  Many would like to see these cats live healthy lives as well.    There is only one answer to this problem:   TNR.    TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return) is the only proven method that will reduce the number of feral cats.     TNR prevents kittens from being born and prevents explosive cat population growth.    Finding an unsocialized cat a home is practically impossible.    Relocating cats is rarely successful.  Unless done properly, the cats often are scared, run off and are unable to find a food supply or shelter, causing consider suffering and even death.  More information on relocating cats see our relocation section. 

What is TNR?

Cats are humanely trapped, brought to a licensed veterinarian to be spayed or neutered, given a rabies vaccine, have their ear tipped for identification purposes and returned to their home – the outdoors area where they have been living.

Getting Started

This process is surprisingly easy and anyone can do it successfully on their first attempt.

How to Trap a Cat

Where to Borrow A Trap

Spay/Neuter Options

Caring for Feral Cats

Relocating Cats

Nuisance Behavior

Resources Available

How to trap a cat so he or she can be spayed or neutered

Begin feeding the cat(s) on a regular basis

Feed at the same time every day at least one week prior to trapping.   If you have a space to hold the cat prior to surgery it is recommended that you feed in the late afternoon or early evening.   If no such holding space is available,feed early in the morning (6:00 or 7:00 am)

Identify how many cats can be trapped

Kittens must be at least 12 weeks old (see how to age a kitten)

If you have a pregnant mom, please make a note of it and let the clinic/veterinarian know ahead of time.   Some will spay a pregnant mom and some will not.   Mother cats with kittens should not be spayed until the kittens are taken away or until the kittens are 5 weeks old, whichever occurs first.  Nursing moms can still get pregnant so don’t delay.

What you will need:

Make an appointment for the spay/neuter surgery

Make sure that you don’t make an appointment for more cats than you can transport or for more than you have traps.   See spay/neuter resources for low cost clinics. 

At least two days prior to the trapping date, place the traps, unset,  near the feeding area

This will get the cats accustomed to the traps and make them more likely to enter them when the time is right.

The evening before (or the morning of) your appointment set the traps

First, away from the trapping area, set the trap and give it a slight shake to make sure it is securely set.    Line the trap with a couple of layers of newspaper. (don’t use newspaper on windy days.)       Add a large (about ¼ can) chunk of canned cat food or preferably tuna to the farthest area in the back of the cage.   Add a ½ tsp of canned cat food/tuna one-half way between the trap plate and the front door.  Place the trap in the area where the cat normally feeds.  If you are trapping more than one cat, place them several feet apart and attempt to situate them around a corner, against a fence or behind a garbage can so they are less likely to be frightened by one of them becoming trapped.    Double check to make the trap is securely set.  Move quietly and calmly.   Set the trap on a flat piece of ground and place a ½ teaspoon of cat food just outside the trap door, then another ½  tsp. about a foot away.  You are trying to lure the cat to the food and then encourage him/her to follow the trail of food into the trap.  Don’t put down large quantities so the cats are satisfied before getting to the food in the back of the cage.    Stand back at least 50 feet (or sit in your car).   It is preferable that you stay in the area; if you can’t do not leave the traps unattended for more than one hour.  

Once the cat(s) is trapped, it will likely thrash around.   This is common and do not get upset and release the cat.  Covering the trap with a blanket or large towel so the cat is in darkness will immediately calm the cat.   

If you are trapping the night before your appointment, place the cat in a safe sheltered area such as a garage or shed or screened in porch and keep the towel over the trap to keep him calm.  It is wise to place plastic under the trap in case of soiling. If it is cold outside and the area is not heated, set the trap a few inches off the ground and use extra blankets to cover the trap.

See the following video on how to set up a trap:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-3UbxyeDYk

Transporting

Line your vehicle with a plastic sheet, place the cats on the plastic, and PARTIALLY cover the traps with plastic and a towel leaving plenty of ventilation.   The plastic will protect your car in the unlikely event a cat urinates.  

Post-surgical care

The cat will be still under the effects of anesthesia when you pick him up later in the day unless your veterinarian holds him overnight.   When you bring the cat back to the recovery space (a secure area in which the temperature is at least 55 degrees in the cooler months) it is critical that the cat remain in the trap.    Keep the towel or blanket over the trap.   Later in the evening, you can sprinkle some dry cat food into the trap and open it ever so slightly and put a small container of water (a pet food can plastic cover works well).  The next day they can be given normal amounts of food and water.   Females must stay confined to their trap for at least 2 nights; males must be confined for 12-18 hours.  They must be kept in a protected area.  Cats can easily die from hypothermia or heat while they are recuperating.   A basement is best.   A garage, shed or screened in porch will do in warm weather.  If you need to wear a jacket then it’s much too cold to allow a cat to recuperate in an unheated area.      After this period of recuperation, it is generally safe to release the cat to its home – the outside where it has been living prior to TNR.   

Borrow a Trap

Traps are available from several sources. Most organizations and individuals require a security deposit and will assist you in how to set up the trap.    Please return all traps in clean condition and do not leave them unattended where they can be stolen.  Please allow at least 36 hours for a response.   

Please see our P.A.N.T. Network page for help in your area.

Caring for feral cats:

If you wish to become a caretaker for a colony of feral cats or just a new cat that has been visiting and appears homeless, it will mean all the difference in their quality of life.

Spay/Neuter: The kindest and most important thing you can do for a feral cat is to ensure that he/she is spayed or neutered.   See TNR Network and spay/neuter resources

Feeding: Feed the highest quality food you can afford.  Try to avoid, if possible, ingredients such as any type of “byproducts” or those foods that have grains as one of its first ingredients.    A high quality diet will keep the cats healthier.    If you can’t afford a high quality prepared food, supplement the food you do buy with a little cooked hamburger – hamburger costs about the same as cat food.   However, hamburger alone lacks calcium and should only be used as a supplement to their regular food.  

Feeding stations: The best, and least expensive stations, are made out of a large plastic container with lid.   Cut a large hole at one end and put the food in the other end.  It will stay dry.     If you find you are attracting too many wild animals, feed at a certain time each day and pick up the food once the cats have been given a chance to eat.  Never leave food out overnight.

Water: Make sure the cats have fresh, clean water every day at the same time as the feeding.   During the winter months they will know when to come to get their daily drink before the water freezes.  Of course, if you can, it is much preferred to give fresh water twice a day.   If your budget allows, purchase a heater for your water bowl. 

Shelter: Cats need shelter to keep out of the rain and the cold.   The least expensive and easiest shelter is made out of a large Tupperware container (54 gallon size).  Cut a hole large enough for the cat to go through but not large enough for other animals like raccoons.  Place it on a pallet or two to keep it off the ground as it will be warmer and less likely for snow to block the entrance.      Stuff it with hay (lots of hay in the winter months).   Place it, if possible, so the door is blocked from the wind. 

Another option is to buy some bales of straw (much preferred over hay) and situate the bales in a way so that there is a hole in the middle with bales below, above and to the side of the hole.  

Keep openings facing south, if possible, or facing in a direction that is partially protected by a building to keep the wind out.      

If you would like to build your own shelter here is a site that gives instructions on some very nice shelters for your cat.
http://www.spayandstay.org/wintershelter.htm

You can provide your cat with extra warmth in the winter months by purchasing an item such as snuggle safe.    It is a round disk that can be heated in the microwave for 5 minutes and will stay warm for many hours.  

Be a good neighbor:

• Keep your yard neat, don’t leave cat food cans, blankets and other debris lying around.
• If cats are using the neighbor’s yard for their litter box, place sand into a large Rubbermaid container and place it on your property and clean weekly.  Or put some peat moss (about a 3’ X 3’ section) on the ground and change it once a month or so.   Both options are very inexpensive. 

Relocating Cats and
Abandoned Domesticated Cats

Relocating cats

Relocating cats is very difficult to do successfully. Unless cats are significantly threatened, they are better off staying in their territory:

Why are cats better off staying in their original territory?
He or she has some sort of resource available to him or her otherwise they wouldn’t be there.   They are territorial and will keep other cats away.  If spayed/neutered, they will keep other unspayed/unneutered cats from coming into the area and increasing the population.

What happens when a cat is relocated or abandoned?
He or she will be frightened and run off in a panic looking for his “home.”   He will use considerable energy searching for his original home and have no known food source or shelter.  Many of these cats starve or die from exposure within weeks or a few short months.

Is there a way that a cat can be successfully relocated?
If a cat is being threatened by abuse for example, it is sometimes helpful to find a situation like a barn home where their chances of survival are greater.   However, it is CRUTIAL that the cat be confined to a large cage (with litter box, food, water) or a very secure shed or other such arrangement for AT LEAST 2-3 WEEKS.    During this time the cat, of course, will be fed, watered, and cleaned every day and he/she will come to know that there is a food source here and, after a time, will stay there.   

Abandoned domesticated cats

Many people believe that a domesticated cat can be dropped off in a populated area, a field or a barn and survive.   This is very rarely the case even in the unlikely event the cat finds a kindly caretaker.   

Cats left behind when their owner moves are terrified and do not have the instincts necessary to hunt for food and fend for itself.   They cry out day and night and frantically search for their owner or try to get back into the building from which they were abandoned.   The vast majority of these cats slowly die.    If they are unspayed, they often get pregnant and have kittens which further reduce their physical strength.    Unneutered males and subject to getting into fights with other cats and becoming injured.    All domesticated cats run the risk of starvation, exposure to the elements or becoming prey to dogs or wild animals.  These cats are often doomed to die within a few weeks or months at best.  

Domesticated Cats that are dumped in the woods or at farms will run in a panic to try to find their home.   They have no food source and are incapable of hunting to survive.   They have no shelter and are exposed to the elements.    If a female is unspayed she will become pregnant if she lives that long.   Male cats are subject to fighting with other male cats and suffer additionally from infected wounds.   These cats are generally doomed to die within a few weeks or months at best.   

See our section on Helping Stray Cats which gives some re-homing suggestions.  

How to Solve Nuisance Behavior

Disturbing Gardens:

• The Coleus Canina plant, a weed originating in Europe, is known as the "Scardy-Cat" or "Pee-off" plant because it emits an odor offensive to cats but can’t be smelled by humans.  Plant them about 3 feet apart around the area you want protected.  A google search will direct you to dealer where these plants can be purchased
• For protecting gardens or flower beds, common household items may be effective, including planting or sprinkling herb rue.    Orange and lemon peels are a deterrent.  Also citrus smells, cayenne pepper, coffee grounds, pipe tobacco, citronella oil, mustard oil and lavender oil.  
• Havahart Get Away dog & cat repellent has a lemon scent, lasts 7-10 days and needs to be reapplied after rain or new growth. Model 5400; 32 oz. bottle sells for $14.16. To order online go to:
  http://www.havahart.com/search?page=1&search=cat%20repellent

Strong Urine Smells

Fighting

Yowling

The above nuisance behaviors are easily controlled when a cat is spayed or neutered.   See TNR for more information

Spay/Neuter Options

Location	Name	Phone	Type	Cats	Dogs
Hyde Park	DC SPCA	845-452-7722	Low Cost Clinic	Yes	No
Pine Plains	Feline Low-Cost Clinic	845-486-7177	Low Cost Clinic	Yes	No
Beacon	Mid-Hudson Animal Aid	845-831-4351	Periodic Free Clinics	Yes	No
Poughkeepsie	City of Pok Animal Control	845-451-4139	Assistance to Pok residents	Yes
Various	P.A.N.T.	845-486-7075	Low Cost Assistance	Yes	Yes
Various	NYS Ags and Markets	518-457-3502	$20 to those who qualify (public assistance or SSI)	Yes	Yes
Various	Spay USA	800-248-SPAY	Certificates	Yes	Yes
Various	Alley Cat Allies	202-667-3630	Uses participating vets	Yes	No
Ulster Co	Animal Emergency Clinic	845- 246-6211	Low Cost Assistance	Yes	Yes
Ulster County	Rondout Valley Kennels	687-7619	Spay/Neuter Van	Yes	Yes
Ulster Co	Project Cat	687-4983	Assistance	Yes	no
Ulster Co.	UC SPCA	845-331-5377 X 16	Low Cost Clinic	Yes	No
Columbia Co.	Columbia-Greene Humane Society	518-828-6044	Low Cost Clinic	Yes	No
Columbia Co.	Roundtop Animal Hospital	518-537-7387	Low Cost Clinic	Yes
Columbia Co	AnimalKind	518-822-8643.	Spay/Neuter Certificates	Yes	No
Orange/Sullivan	Tara Inc.	845-754-7100	Mobile Van	Yes	No
Connecticut	TEAM Mobile	888-367-8326	Mobile Van	Yes	No

How to Report Abuse

If you witness a cat being abused call your county’s humane law enforcement officer during normal business hours.  They can be reached at 845-452-7722.  

Emergency complaints should be referred to:

DC Sheriff’s Office:	486-3600
State Police	677-7300 (Millbrook)
	876-4033 (Rhinebeck)
	223-7818 (Hopewell Junction)
Or your local police.

How to Find a Lost Cat

General info:

• Many more cats are killed by the “Silence Factor” than by wild animals or dogs.   This is where a cat hides deep under porches, sheds or anywhere he can find and remains totally silent so he is difficult to find. 

• Confident or curious cats are much more likely to wander further away from your house than an insecure or shy cat.

• Always check your animal shelters and rescuers (see our network) to see if they have your pet.   Check back frequently, especially at the large shelters, where they receive many cats.  

• Report your cat missing on our local lost/found pet directory at
  http://lostfoundpets.com

• Create giant posters – see http://www.missingpetpartnership.org/recovery-posters.php for excellent information on the most effective posters

• Pass our flyers to neighbors and ask for their help.

• Unless you have actually seen your cat escape, thoroughly check everywhere inside your house – under furniture, in the chimney, trapped in the basement ceiling – everywhere.

• Visit www.missingpetpartnership.org for lots of very helpful, expert information on finding your lost cat

Displaced Cats:

These are indoor only cats or any cat that has become lost from somewhere other than their home.

• Don’t give up hope.   Your cat may not be found for several weeks or months. 
• These cats are scared and will often run and hide in the nearest hiding spot they can find. They are often silent.   
• Often they will first run along a building so start by going along your house until you get to the first place that a cat will be able to hide.   For example, a porch, deck, shed, basement window well, shrubbery, etc.  Take a flashlight and look very good as the cat may be hard to find.     
• Take a high-powered flashlight at night to look for eye reflections.  
• MOST times the cat will be in a 5-7 house radius of yours.   Ask to look under their porches, decks, sheds, bushes, etc.  
• Most displaced cats must be caught in a humane trap. They can be purchased for $40 at Home Depot and Lowes.   See our network for places you might be able to borrow a trap.  Often a cat will not go into a trap for up to 2 weeks.    
• Go to www.missingpetpartnership.org for lots of information on the behavior of displaced cats and how to find them. 

Cats that have been Injured:

• Look on your road – are there any signs of blood or hair?   If so, your cat may have been hit by a car and is trying to make it home.  Follow the route from that spot toward your house.   It is likely that the cat is hiding as a measure of protecting itself; he will keep silent and hide as best as he can.    A great many dead cats are found crawled deep under porches, sheds, etc.   If they had received prompt care, many of these cats would have survived.  Take a flashlight and look carefully.   If your cat is an outdoor cat and has an area that he uses frequently as his toilet, check that area. 

Outdoor cats:

• These cats may have been chased off by a dog or wild animal.    They may be several streets away and not know how to get back.   
• Put up large colorful posters (see http://www.missingpetpartnership.org/recovery-posters.php for a sample)
• Hand out flyers
• Don’t give up – you may find your cat several weeks after he has become lost.