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Feral Cats
Almost everyone wants to see fewer cats roaming our neighborhoods. Many would like to see these cats live healthy lives as well. There is only one answer to this problem: TNR. TNR (Trap/Neuter/Return) is the only proven method that will reduce the number of feral cats. TNR prevents kittens from being born and prevents explosive cat population growth. Finding an unsocialized cat a home is practically impossible. Relocating cats is rarely successful. Unless done properly, the cats often are scared, run off and are unable to find a food supply or shelter, causing consider suffering and even death. More information on relocating cats see our relocation section.
What is TNR?
Cats are humanely trapped, brought to a licensed veterinarian to be spayed or neutered, given a rabies vaccine, have their ear tipped for identification purposes and returned to their home – the outdoors area where they have been living.
Getting Started
This process is surprisingly easy and anyone can do it successfully on their first attempt.
How to trap a cat so he or she can be spayed or neutered
Begin feeding the cat(s) on a regular basis
Feed at the same time every day at least one week prior to trapping. If you have a space to hold the cat prior to surgery it is recommended that you feed in the late afternoon or early evening. If no such holding space is available,feed early in the morning (6:00 or 7:00 am)
Identify how many cats can be trapped
Kittens must be at least 12 weeks old (see how to age a kitten)
If you have a pregnant mom, please make a note of it and let the clinic/veterinarian know ahead of time. Some will spay a pregnant mom and some will not. Mother cats with kittens should not be spayed until the kittens are taken away or until the kittens are 5 weeks old, whichever occurs first. Nursing moms can still get pregnant so don’t delay.
What you will need:
- A humane trap. If you don’t have a humane trap you can borrow one. You should borrow the trap 3-4 days before you plan to trap
- A blanket or towel large enough to cover the trap
- A sheet of plastic for your car
- Canned cat food or tuna
- A safe location to place the cat in its trap to recover for 18-24 hours after surgery. It should be at least 55 degrees if you are trapping in the winter months. If you or your neighbor does not have an appropriate space there may be resources available to you.
- A few sheets of newspaper for each trap being used
Make an appointment for the spay/neuter surgery
Make sure that you don’t make an appointment for more cats than you can transport or for more than you have traps. See spay/neuter resources for low cost clinics.
At least two days prior to the trapping date, place the traps, unset, near the feeding area
This will get the cats accustomed to the traps and make them more likely to enter them when the time is right.
The evening before (or the morning of) your appointment set the traps
First, away from the trapping area, set the trap and give it a slight shake to make sure it is securely set. Line the trap with a couple of layers of newspaper. (don’t use newspaper on windy days.) Add a large (about ¼ can) chunk of canned cat food or preferably tuna to the farthest area in the back of the cage. Add a ½ tsp of canned cat food/tuna one-half way between the trap plate and the front door. Place the trap in the area where the cat normally feeds. If you are trapping more than one cat, place them several feet apart and attempt to situate them around a corner, against a fence or behind a garbage can so they are less likely to be frightened by one of them becoming trapped. Double check to make the trap is securely set. Move quietly and calmly. Set the trap on a flat piece of ground and place a ½ teaspoon of cat food just outside the trap door, then another ½ tsp. about a foot away. You are trying to lure the cat to the food and then encourage him/her to follow the trail of food into the trap. Don’t put down large quantities so the cats are satisfied before getting to the food in the back of the cage. Stand back at least 50 feet (or sit in your car). It is preferable that you stay in the area; if you can’t do not leave the traps unattended for more than one hour.
Once the cat(s) is trapped, it will likely thrash around. This is common and do not get upset and release the cat. Covering the trap with a blanket or large towel so the cat is in darkness will immediately calm the cat.
If you are trapping the night before your appointment, place the cat in a safe sheltered area such as a garage or shed or screened in porch and keep the towel over the trap to keep him calm. It is wise to place plastic under the trap in case of soiling. If it is cold outside and the area is not heated, set the trap a few inches off the ground and use extra blankets to cover the trap.
See the following video on how to set up a trap:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-3UbxyeDYk
Transporting
Line your vehicle with a plastic sheet, place the cats on the plastic, and PARTIALLY cover the traps with plastic and a towel leaving plenty of ventilation. The plastic will protect your car in the unlikely event a cat urinates.
Post-surgical care
The cat will be still under the effects of anesthesia when you pick him up later in the day unless your veterinarian holds him overnight. When you bring the cat back to the recovery space (a secure area in which the temperature is at least 55 degrees in the cooler months) it is critical that the cat remain in the trap. Keep the towel or blanket over the trap. Later in the evening, you can sprinkle some dry cat food into the trap and open it ever so slightly and put a small container of water (a pet food can plastic cover works well). The next day they can be given normal amounts of food and water. Females must stay confined to their trap for at least 2 nights; males must be confined for 12-18 hours. They must be kept in a protected area. Cats can easily die from hypothermia or heat while they are recuperating. A basement is best. A garage, shed or screened in porch will do in warm weather. If you need to wear a jacket then it’s much too cold to allow a cat to recuperate in an unheated area. After this period of recuperation, it is generally safe to release the cat to its home – the outside where it has been living prior to TNR.
Borrow a Trap
Traps are available from several sources. Most organizations and individuals require a security deposit and will assist you in how to set up the trap. Please return all traps in clean condition and do not leave them unattended where they can be stolen. Please allow at least 36 hours for a response.
Please see our P.A.N.T. Network page for help in your area.
Caring for feral cats:
If you wish to become a caretaker for a colony of feral cats or just a new cat that has been visiting and appears homeless, it will mean all the difference in their quality of life.
Spay/Neuter: The kindest and most important thing you can do for a feral cat is to ensure that he/she is spayed or neutered. See TNR Network and spay/neuter resources
Feeding: Feed the highest quality food you can afford. Try to avoid, if possible, ingredients such as any type of “byproducts” or those foods that have grains as one of its first ingredients. A high quality diet will keep the cats healthier. If you can’t afford a high quality prepared food, supplement the food you do buy with a little cooked hamburger – hamburger costs about the same as cat food. However, hamburger alone lacks calcium and should only be used as a supplement to their regular food.
Feeding stations: The best, and least expensive stations, are made out of a large plastic container with lid. Cut a large hole at one end and put the food in the other end. It will stay dry. If you find you are attracting too many wild animals, feed at a certain time each day and pick up the food once the cats have been given a chance to eat. Never leave food out overnight.
Water: Make sure the cats have fresh, clean water every day at the same time as the feeding. During the winter months they will know when to come to get their daily drink before the water freezes. Of course, if you can, it is much preferred to give fresh water twice a day. If your budget allows, purchase a heater for your water bowl.
Shelter: Cats need shelter to keep out of the rain and the cold. The least expensive and easiest shelter is made out of a large Tupperware container (54 gallon size). Cut a hole large enough for the cat to go through but not large enough for other animals like raccoons. Place it on a pallet or two to keep it off the ground as it will be warmer and less likely for snow to block the entrance. Stuff it with hay (lots of hay in the winter months). Place it, if possible, so the door is blocked from the wind.
Another option is to buy some bales of straw (much preferred over hay) and situate the bales in a way so that there is a hole in the middle with bales below, above and to the side of the hole.
Keep openings facing south, if possible, or facing in a direction that is partially protected by a building to keep the wind out.
If you would like to build your own shelter here is a site that gives instructions on some very nice shelters for your cat.
http://www.spayandstay.org/wintershelter.htm
You can provide your cat with extra warmth in the winter months by purchasing an item such as snuggle safe. It is a round disk that can be heated in the microwave for 5 minutes and will stay warm for many hours.
Be a good neighbor:
- Keep your yard neat, don’t leave cat food cans, blankets and other debris lying around.
- If cats are using the neighbor’s yard for their litter box, place sand into a large Rubbermaid container and place it on your property and clean weekly. Or put some peat moss (about a 3’ X 3’ section) on the ground and change it once a month or so. Both options are very inexpensive.
